My arms ached as the weight of the bike on the incline pushed back against me. The black smoke flung back as if I had a magnetic field for the exhaust of every large truck passing me. I held my breath put my head down and kept walking. Left, right, left, right, look back and make sure Kevin hasn’t been pancaked and repeat. Thoughts raced through my head, why did we buy single speed bikes….are we crazy (yes)….will I ever see the top of this hill, was Sergio lying to us? He said this would be a relatively easy day to Antigua. We walked and paused, more pauses than usual. Kevin wasn’t feeling 100% and I could feel his energy draining and so I obliged and didn’t say a word about the length or amount of pauses. In reality I welcomed them and was happy to just get out of the city and back on the bikes rested.

At kilometer 19.5 on the road a man stood with a gun. We said Hola parked our bikes and browsed the menu. I had an odd craving for bread and thus we ordered to small sandwiches and 2 to go for later, we were excited to learn from our mistakes and think ahead in the normal practice of us being stranded with little food and our bellies growling as we rest our heads wherever we end up. Reluctant to get up and moving again because let’s be honest how much fun can you have pushing a bike with 24kg attached up a mountain on the highway with no shoulder? Don’t be fooled we had fun because no less than 3km up the road a truck with a flat bed and no cargo gave me a hand sign. I leaped with joy raised my arm and waved it as hard as I could and started running with my bike up the mountain. As the truck slowed and pulled over I already had the thoughts of throwing my bicycle up on the truck bed and jumping on and going wherever he was going because it had to be faster than walking up this mountain. Kevin lifted his bike then mine and we attached them with the drivers belt to keep them semi secure as we drive at a turtles pace which was 3 times as fast as our walking speed.

The sign for Antigua came and our tires were back on the pavement and we exchanged our thanks. I started to pedal and didn’t go anywhere. Chain was no longer connected to the bike. Easy fix and as we started turning our pedals, finally, the descend came and it was beautiful. The wind in my hair, the speed per kilometer was faster than ever before, and my one break was not enough. 14:40 gas station came into view and Kevin signaled the sign to stop. We pulled in and he asked if we could camp there. Nope not an option unless we wait till 23:00 when the lady gets off work and would let us camp in her garden. We didn’t want to wait so we carried on downhill and in record time we would be there. We pulled off and used the restrooms at a gym. I reconnected my front break to help slow me down because I was leaving Kevin behind in the dust just living my best life riding downhill after such hard work hiking with a bike up the mountain. Vrooom we were off again and then it started to smell like burnt rubber. Kevin was leading and it looked like his bike was on fire.

We stopped and touched the break. It was steaming and now dripping black gunk. The two workers on the side said it wasn’t good and his break needed a rest. I couldn’t help myself, I just laughed. Seriously what a day I thought, not much more to do besides enjoy the moment. And this is where the magic began….

Go read Somewhere In-Between for the rest of the story and one of my favorite experiences in Guatemala thus far.

If it’s meant to be we will stop I said. Kevin was asking to stop off at one of the temples on our way to Punta Gorda and well just 20 minutes down the road we saw the sign and pulled off the road and started pushing our bikes uphill. A dirt and rock steep .5 mile incline which pained my legs because it had now been almost two full weeks of biking without a full days rest and we had been pushing through Belize. Nam ti Lin was right before us and although small it was a scenic beauty to finally see a Mayan temple

It was good break before the rolling hills started. Mentally I was not prepared to be pushing my bicycle uphills yet. I thought it wouldn’t come till Guatemala and again I was wrong. We stopped for soup and some drunk guy fell over and slept on the ground of the bar in front of the restaurant. As we waited a guy proceeded to push past my likes of boundaries and I had to tell Kevin in German everything. We typically speak Swiss German daily unless with others. It has come in hand when discussing prices and plans rather than using English and people being able to slight or fully understand. We ate soup and almost bought food coloring $0.50 ice cream but decided against it and got back on our bikes only to get right back off at the next uphill. Although it’s slow and boring as we go up, the down is children’s play and we hoot and holler on the way down. At 14:00 we got to a church college and sat under their shelter to eat the last two oranges we stole from trees we rode past and to stretch and lay down. Their grass was so neatly cut we decided it looked like a lovely place to set up our tent and camp. We got rejected only to be offered a seafront camping spot at Julio’s house 9 miles down the road right in town. We accepted and began biking the rolling hills. I was weak and tired and told Kevin to just power on without me until a guy yelled you only got 5 miles till town and then my perspective changed and all was well except we didn’t have money and it was Sunday do everything would be closed. Julio gave stellar directions we found his house and a vegan, vegetarian/seafood place open to eat. They guy was amazing and let us share a tasty fish dish (best I’d had in Belize) and offered us two coconuts to restore our electrolytes after our ride even though we told him we didn’t have money and would need to pay after finding an ATM. He mentioned how trustworthy he was and I could feel it. He gave off such natural kind hearted energy that we ended up spending the evening at his restaurant till 21:00 with a Canadian couple talking life stories, health is wealth, and conservation. Kevin’s stomach was uneasy as it had been up and down recently, really a bummer for him and I feel bad he has to suffer at times while ai enjoy all the foods and drinks without hesitation. So Gomier, the owner of the restaurant made Kevin an herbal concoction and it helped him enough that he ordered a smoothie and burrito while I was in the bathroom. We had some words exchanged in Swiss German ad the couple with us laughed knowing what had happened. All was well we spent way too much money that day and in return at 20:30 Kevin had to go confirm we had a free camping spot still.

Good news, the next morning the boat worked out we paid our exit fee and before mid day we were in Guatemala at Puerto Barrios for a much needed rest and recovery day.

We stepped off the boat got on our bikes with our heavy packs on our backs and headed down the road asking for immigration. The feeling was home anyways more so than Belize certainly nothing compared to if we walked into my mom’s house or into Kevin’s parents house in Reidholz. I seriously dream of Swiss chocolate while biking. So much so we finally bought a ball of 100% cacao to try and make some hot chocolate with or eat as we go when we need a pick me up. Haven’t even tried it yet sadly. It’s as if out of sight out of mind really does work when you are busy doing things all day. Immigration was easy and we received, well I received 90 days.

A guide was showing a lady we met on the boat to a hotel and said it was good deal so we followed and got a hotel room for the night dropped our bags found a bank and food. We were so untrusting that we asked probably 5 times how much and it cost us nothing for two lunches plus s guy gave us 5qz since we didn’t have enough and then we dropped our hesitations and began trusting people or at least made that s goal of ours for this country. It was nice to hear Spanish again although then I often have to have Kevin translate tough words for me. The lunch spot gave us a recommendation for dinner and we headed back to our hotel to shower, make coffee, repack and get our clothes washed. We took some time with the wifi and showered and next thing we know it’s 18:00 and starting to get dark so we heard out to find a grocery story only to be told it’s far away and everything close is closed and with our luck we just happened to turn into the road where the restaurant which was recommended to us was. We went it and ordered and I’m shooting myself in the foot because it was one of my favorite meals and I didn’t take a photo. It was so delicious and cheap we ordered two more full meals to go to have for breakfast the next morning when we headed to Guatemala City.

In a final decision for our bodies and time frame we decided to bus West to Guatemala City and then hop back on the bikes to continue south in hopes to make it to South America by March/April and spend a few months there visiting and maybe even staying with the family of friends.

Tire fixed equals mission complete next goal, make it to Placencia and catch the boat to Honduras. I was so excited to leave Belize and get back to what I would call a more traditional culture and cheaper food.

We rode and we rode and the map lied to us. The road twisted and turned and then we would stop take a break and it was as if we were going nowhere and then we saw it. White sand, blue water and huge private houses on the beach mixed with open lots for sale. That meant prime camping territory in our minds and we confirmed we would find a place to camp maybe even in an empty building once all the workers leave. Kevin told me it would allow us to be off the ground and we could hide behind a wall and have a perfect sunrise view. I was sold. Nothing new we searched for food and asked a guy who was walking his dog, maybe we didn’t listen to his suggestion but we found a hotel with a beach front view and decent prices to share some seafood and use their bathrooms, wifi, and get more information. We asked about the boats and they confirmed a boat leaves ONCE A WEEK IN FRIDAYS AT 9:00. It was Friday at 12:50. Pardon my language, shit, we didn’t want to stay in this fancy place and spend money on food for a week just to pay to catch a boat to Honduras. Why did we not look it up before and thus we ordered a coffee to share called our families and did a little research for a new plan, take a boat across to Independence.

That night we camped on th beach on the side of a private houses where a lot was for sale. Some old I believe American lady asked us what we were doing when we first arrived to take a swim and we polietly stretched the truth that we just needed to shower and rinse off while watching the sunset. At this point when she left we sat down and made dinner with a discussion as such (somewhat and shortened)

• CJ: what a bitch she is going to come back and kick us out
• Kevin: if she has nothing better to do then yes but I feel comfortable here let’s wait it out and not put the tent up till dark
• CJ: I go ask those people on the dock if we can camp at their house. I would feel better
• Kevin: you have to follow your heart and if asking makes you more comfortable than do it
• CJ: do you feel good camping her
• Kevin: yes I think it will be fine and if not they wake us we get up move 500 meters down the beach and camp again
• CJ: ok we try it

The wind thrashed through the tent it was chilly and then it went calm. All night I woke up every hour and not for thrbususly I hear noise reason. I had to pee and was too lazy to get out of the tent at night to go so I held it and slept on my side for comfort because laying on my back made the feeling worse and I just wanted to make it till 5am. At 4:55 I gave up got the flashlight found a tree and went pee and the feeling of relief filled me with gratitude. Another beautiful night camping with a cloudy sunrise which made for beautiful photos while we drank coffee and grabbed our things to head to the road to pack so the old lady couldn’t tell at us as she walked her dog in the morning. I told Kevin he was right, last night when he said she wouldn’t walk alone in the dark that’s when we knew we were safe till sunrise. Off to the pier we went to take the boat across thus cutting out the 25 miles from the main road to Placencia which twist and turns and start heading south again. Easy right? No, because we didn’t take the 6:45 boat the only one which takes bike we needed to hire a private charter to get across the bay. A 10 minute boat ride for $30 USD….no way. So we stalked the dock. We asked your guides to drop us on the other side and then came Jeff who stealthily said I will take you guys just give me a minute because they all get mad if I take you because I’m not a tour guide. He said he had been stuck in a foreign country before and has a boat and could drop us off quickly. Another American also Jeff wanted to shake our hands in the mere fact we had made it this far on one speed bikes with our gear just strapped on

We grabbed our heavy bikes and on the boat I stepped and boom crash I slipped, still holding my bike I fell overboard, trip ruined the universe was telling me to just pay and not illegally cross the bay. Just kidding I did slip but stayed in the boat and put the bike down and waited for Kevin to get in with his bike which had to hold the entire ride over and I got to sit on the front of the boat and just enjoy the views. I didn’t get a picture of Jeff helping us sadly although it is a good story from both sides he wished us well and we got on our bikes and headed to Punta Gorda to try and catch a boat to Guatemala. Maybe we should have just given up on taking a boat, because as we biked further south it began to rain and rain hard. We passed a guy on his bike and rode a few miles with him asking questions about his job on a banana farm and how he ride his bike 1 hour each way to and from work. He lived near by and said camping is possible there and then we stopped to drink water and waved goodbye. At this point I wanted to push through and ride to punta Gorda get a hotel and chill for a night after a long wet and hot day. Kevin alternatively was ready to be done and then came golden stream nature preserve we rode up and took shelter under their house/office and asked if we could camp. We layed out our clothes to dry, used the compostable toilet, and made some food. The last of the food we had until Punta Gorda or a street vendor. I dominated in Yahtzee that evening, read my book, wrote some of the blog to catch up slightly, checked on my brother and went to bed, only to wake up to the sunrise because we didn’t hear the alarm. The howling monkeys and other birds sang me a bedtime song and it was beautiful to wake up rested and ready for a workout.

Short and sweet it was mid heat and our bags were packed we said our farewells and Dale in the midst of helping us hold our bikes while we pulled the straps tight to secure our bags he asked, “where do you see yourself in five years?” I loved this question and while we threw out ideas about sustainably living in a tiny house we build or on a boat restoring it and having a garden with solar energy I haven’t stopped thinking about this question. A simple question that truly fueled my ride to Dangregia especially the first 13 miles of tough sandy road. Woosh I hit a wet spot and slide out gave a shout and Kevin laughed asking if I was showing off for him. In the moments after I mentioned how thankful I was he took me downhill biking because I am starting to find my flow and feel good on the bike no matter the circumstances.

The paved road came, then the city, we shared a way too expensive Chinese meal, got groceries found a place to workout in the morning and slept in what I would describe as a fashionable jail cell. Heard traffic, people chatting right behind our heads and woke up only to find my front tire deflated. Disappointed I had the first flat of the day I knew it had to be from all the shredding I was doing up and down the dirt path. We pumped the tire went to the park and worked out with the ants and mosquitos. I probably talk to the bugs as much as I do to Kevin. Partly in hopes they will stop buying my legs and making me itch all night.

I said goodbye to the ocean view, pumped my tire once more and rode to breakfast while we waited for the bike repair shop to open. After paying way too much to get my tire patched we negotiated he give us a patch repair kit and fix some screws on Kevin’s bike and off we went back the way we came to get on the road south to head to catch the a boat to Honduras…funny I’m writing this from Guatemala and you’ll find out why in the next few posts.

Dear Kevin, tut Mir leid. This trip with you has been nothing short of spectacular. Even in the moments of hunger and pure exhaustion when we are out of food have less than one bottle of water to share and don’t know how long we have till our needs are fulfilled and your rotten smells exit your body and enter my nose I still am grateful for these experiences we are able to share together. I am thankful everyday for: the hot coffee you bring me as I put the tent away, for all the belly laughs on the side of the road, for sometimes giving me a false sense of security in the tent at night (because you are out like a rock and I truly don’t believe you would wake up to any noise like I do), for pushing my limits on and off the bicycle, for the encouragement when I’m having a rough day, for the reminders to eat and drink “we are not on a deprivation train”, and so much more. Painting you as the complaining food monster has been fun and I can’t wait to continue since you gave me full liberty in our media actions and at the same time I wish to show you appreciation for all you do. I promise you we will put our warm clothes to good use this month so you won’t feel as if you have been carrying a useless jacket. Cheers to Guatemala and the mountains we tackle by pushing our bikes uphill it reminds me of the first time you took me downhill and made me carry my bike 800 meters up the side of the mountain because we got lost. All out of love right?

Wait for me at the top of the hill!! He passed me and when we got to the top we looked left and made the decision to take the path which wasn’t a highway on the map. This left turn began a whole new trip an unexpected gift which turned into gifts which we will never be able to repay and hope to one day pay it forward. If you only read this post then you will live through what I call and will remember as Belize.

I groaned inside as my bike hit the rough dirt after a sleepless night my legs were not ready for what lay ahead, a Bumpy, Rocky, Sandy Dirt path, they call it the Coastal Highway and I call it a little piece of joy which makes one truly feel their heart beat.

As the terrain changed so did my attitude, I was happy to be working hard for every kilometer because if being on the dirt road meant no cars and stunning jungle and mountains views I would turn down every off the beaten path without hesitation.

Around 10:30 it started to get hot and we still hadn’t found food, water or made time for our workout which I recluctantly agreed to in my groggy sleepless morning state begging for another hour when I truly wanted about 6 more hours of solid sleep as Kevin sped up I chased after and the dirt road become a paved bridge with a beautiful underpass of a river and a rock jetting out of the side of the earth.

We stopped and after 5 minutes of just enjoying the view we kicked ourselves for not just taking the initiative to go down the side path and explore the water to take another shower because when the opportunity arises we know better than to decline the offer or else it might become 5 days turning into 7 and we suddenly can’t remember the last time we bathed. Honestly, we smell. We smell bad on the daily. I’ve stopped using deodorant because it’s now considered a luxury and I believe Kevin ran out on the 4th or 5th day of the trip. If we had a place to shower and rinse off naturally we found a way to workout and thus it made for a great pause from the bouncy dirt road and allowed us to keep to our health and fitness goals. In hated to admit to Kevin he was right after the work out and swim I felt rejuvenated and ready to ride. So ride we did. Ride, break for water, go pee, talk about not talking about food because we were both starving as the clock reached mid day. Pedal more swerve find a line with the least amount of rocks to save our bikes and also one which wasn’t sandy inorder to not expend too much energy pedaling. I was in full downhill biking mode pushing gas for the hills and shredding on the way down whichever line I see fit best controlling the bike perfectly until I slid out in the sand, ugh I thought, I hate the sand and where is a place to eat, don’t drink the water CJ you might need it later because we are going no where fast today. With the slow pace in observed everything and then the jungle turned to trees and the trees had something on them. Round balls in the greenish yellow color. I couldn’t put a finger on what they might be and we stopped to pick a few and try them. Kevin rubbed his hands together and said it smells like oranges. We peeled one to share and as soon as we out it to our mouths we both yelled orange! For the next twenty minutes we biked and picked oranges and laughed how the oranges we see are bright orange and these are what oranges are supposed to look like. Why do we color things I thought and what a difference the taste of fruit is when it comes right off the tree or was this again the I’m tired haven’t had a meal today anything taste like the best meal of my life situation.

As we stepped back on the bikes I could feel the renewed energy and slight hope that we were not far from completing this dirt road. We pulled up to the T in the road and a worn sign had a small arrow pointing left to Gales Point we turned right in hopes to make it further and then get food and find a place to camp. After the right turn a bridge appeared as did around 6 people, an unexpected sight for the heat of the afternoon and considering we hadn’t seen anyone besides a construction worker on this dirt road all day. One guy came out waving with a giant smile and we just felt at home.

After small talk, where are you from, what are you doing and this and that we discovered they we’re fixing the Gales Point water pump which hasn’t given the village water in 3 days and music to my ears, there is a lady who cooks decent food just 3 miles down the road plus an added bonus of a beautiful manatee lodge and view of the lagoon/peninsula. We turned around and didn’t look back. As the bumps became less prominent we waved at children, admired the school, library, church and asked everyone we passed where Alita’s house was because that meant music to our bellies. 3 miles later we parked our bikes, rang a small bell, and it was like magic as the food arrived at the table it fell silent and it was beautiful. Two beings madly in love, with their food. A basic need often taken for granted was finally being fulfilled in the late afternoon sun.

We played Yahtzee, went to the dock and then along came Dale and Kenny with the good news, the village has water once again. I am sure most of you cannot imagine going 3 days with little to no access to water, I have a hard time myself even though it is a reality at times when bicycling on unnamed, unpaved roads with no wifi or map.

Luckily Jay another village member allowed us to camp at his place with an ocean front view, it was 5 stars in camping terms and that night when I rest my head on the surface of my camping mat at 19:30 I was a solid Rock till 4:30 when Jay and his family started their morning shuffling around.

Side note: that night for dinner we ate Gibs nut, I leave the surprise to those who wish to Google or investigate what it actually is. Tasted like rabbit meat, a little fatty, and it filled my belly added bonus we got to chat with everyone and exchange stories by far my favorite thing while traveling besides the journey itself. How amazing is it that Dale takes no medicine and he even pulled off a stunning L sit style pull up. I was impressed and loved hearing about his garden and word for the year.

Jay served us an egg breakfast with coffee as the sun penetrated the clouds and as we sat chatting and admiring a butterfly that looked like a snake and owl Ken walked in and that was the start of us being late for the boat ride across the lagoon to go explore a cave. We trekked on flat land which eventually turned to jungle, then swamp which I ultimately ended up swimming in with my left leg as I missed a log during a crossing and then into the warm tempered cave which hosted bats, cockroaches, an eel in the river, shells and a lookout hole once you pass through the main chamber. We were even able to climb up the roots to get out if we wanted.

As we exited, Dale took this stunning photo which made me think of Jurassic Park and our boat driver and guide cut off a limb of a root to let us swing through the jungle. Ladies and gentlemen the movies do not lie and do not need to computerize these stunts. You can climb the roots, swing on them, and be childlike. As we picked up trash and caught the boat back to the peninsula we stopped to watch the manatees surface near their watering hole. It was an unforeseen and unforgettable adventure and pleasant morning to not sit on my saddle and bike. Thank you Dale and Ken for inviting us and supporting us in the boat ride and cave. Thank you Jay for the campsite and great conversations.

Sometimes life leads you in a mysterious way and it’s not till you truly open your eyes to see what is right in front of you that you realize you are right where you are supposed to be for a reason beyond your control. I am thankful for the Coastal Highway, for turning right and then making a left back to the place we almost overlooked. I am thankful for the kind souls whom have and continue to give me confidence and kindness on this journey, it started in Gales point and when I am struggling I think back to these two short days and I smile and my strength returns and I carry on. Much more happened within myself on that peninsula yet I haven’t come to terms with how to write it down or if I truly am ready to share my deeper inner thoughts for now I leave you with this, if you want a tiny piece of true life in Belize go to Gales Point and stay at the lodge or Jay’s AirBnB, it won’t be typical yet maybe you too will find something you didn’t know you needed while you are there.

I awoke rested almost too rested due to the pure fact we were in a safe camping spot and my belly was well fed the night before which had not happened often until this point. After an awkward goodbye where the  mother woke her son to have him barely say goodbye as we left their garden we jumped on the bikes and began the day pedaling and pedaling and more pedaling until a car was stuck so we turned around got off our bikes and pushed her truck out of the mud allowing the driver to continue his day. We got back in our bikes and found a small drive up window which had burritos for $2.50 BZ each for breakfast which we ate and at that point decided the food in Belize is not our favorite. I would describe their cuisine as a mix of fake Mexican with a slight hint of american taste or maybe we have yet to find the right spot to stop. All the while I always tell Kevin whenever we sit down to eat that if someone served me cat poop after all the kilometers we have biked daily I still would say it tasted delicious and would be thankful for food to fuel me.

We biked and at one point after looking left to right life changed, we passed a prison where cat calls where yelled and quote hey little girl was yelled as I biked past. I looked back at Kevin and I think he knew exactly what I was thinking, I would not be camping near by and would rather bike all night if that’s what it took. It gets better right? Well, no. We then tried to find Gracie Rock but this town had no food and was surrounded by a military school for troubled youth whom have been in and out of criminal happenings.

We kept biking and I tried to take the workload for Kevin as this day was not his day and the last thing he wanted was to bike more kilometers. We tried to find a compromise yet all the signs in the area read shot if caught trespassing and there were bullet holes in the signs. Finally at what they called mile 24 we found a sanitation dump which had a bus stop to get shelter, feed the beast Kevin whom reminds me daily that we are not on the deprivation train and need more food. Once our mouths had strawberry juice dripping down onto our shirts we kept biking up the mild hill in order to find a campsite because Kevin was depressed, in his head and didn’t want to bike on. This is a reoccurring theme. I could put miles from before sunrise to sunset on the bike but if his head isn’t right or he doesn’t feel like biking he sees no sense in forcing himself to carry on (I get it and don’t all at once).  

We pulled into this gated community and as this is an English speaking country Kevin said it was my turn to ask about camping here. I rode up to the lady whose back was to me in order to ask and she couldn’t speak English. All I got was a finger pointed to the store and the word shop. Next stop, the shop. A fully loaded fancy import shop for all things from Taiwan. The shop owner and what I believe to be his wife chatted back and forth all of which I couldn’t understand until finally a yes we could camp in one of two spots our choice. We payed down our mats and played rummy, read, and enjoyed what we thought would be wifi when the older man gave us a password but nope didn’t work and that was perfect because we needed some down time to just be still. It was nearly 16:00 when again the old man popped up gave me a bucket showed me where the water was and said we could shower. I took full advantage of the bucket style shower even making myself.more comfortable by doing our laundry by hand all the while Kevin cooked up some oats with fruit our typical camp out dinner due to ease of carrying, cheap, and filling, well filling for Kevin whom eats double portion and semi filling for me because some days I just feel too tired to lift my spork to my mouth and just want to sleep.

I set up the tent and the gate out front was locked. This gave me false hope I would feel comfortable sleeping and get some rest. Night came and I couldn’t sleep. I closed my eyes I tried to ignore every sound that woke me and yet I sat up and peaked out to see what it was. I hit Kevin to wake him to look. I tossed, I turned, I eternally cried because I just wanted to sleep and still I couldn’t. The alarm rang and I told Kevin to go workout without me that I needed an hour more of sleep and we compromised to workout after biking a few hours and he showered and made coffee and kindly woke me up with a fresh hot cup of coffee tent side an hour later. I was beyond thankful and so happy and excited to start the day. Added bonus the cute old Taiwanese man showed up to unlock the gate and gifted us two perfectly wrapped pineapple pastries just as we were headed to the main road.

Something we started at the begining of our trip was saying three things we are thankful for as we begin ridding each morning. We both agreed that pineapple pastry was at the top of the list. Although I’m still slightly bitter toward Kevin that he first took a bite of mine to try them and then proceeded to eat his entire pastry without returning the bite he took. Mostly just sad because they were so tasty that more often than not I have thought of that pastry and the flavors of shortbread while biking, maybe it is because we haven’t had much processed food or fattening things which just melt in your mouth.

As we left the Taiwanese compound we couldn’t help discussing how Belize has many cultures and private communities making it hard to fully discover what the countries true colors are. Read the next post for the rise after such a horrible night and previous bad day.

The alarm rang and duties began, Kevin started the coffee and began packing while I filled the water bottles and started to call Kevin’s sister to wish her a happy birthday. His family recently sent photos from snow skiing and while I do not miss the cold there are times my mind wonders to being with them in the mountains playing cards or badminton in the evenings and waking up to ski or hike.

As I began pedaling we discussed two options, bike to Orange Walk and stay the night or make it all the way to Belize City and either 1. Find a hotel or hostel 2. Hope the Couchsurfing guy responded 3. Either way camp or get hosted because Belize is too expensive for our budget we set ourselves.

We passed small villages one right after the other and then all of a sudden we both realize this isn’t Mexico anymore and there are not street vendors every few kilometers, the signs had turned to English, and mile markers were our new indicators if we saw them because there were no signs telling you which towns or cities were where and there was absolutely no shoulder to ride on.

We laughed how I forgot to write my saddest story in the previous blog posts and this I vowed to add as soon as I could so insert now a sad story and if you love animals maybe skip this part: wild dogs and pet dogs alike are the most terrifying animals whom roam these streets and while Kevin and I had road space in Mexico we biked side by side although I was slightly behind to make sure our bags didn’t hit. As we chatted a dog ran out to chase Kevin and I stuck my line and kept biking to end up running over the dog and then swerving into the road inorder to not run into Kevin because I didn’t want to brake as I was on top of the dogs neck. Good news is the dog scurried away kept distance and continued to bark while his mates watched, saw the accident and ended up not chasing us. Then we biked down the road talking about how I should have kicked out rather than ran over the dog. I am slightly traumatized and still hate when dogs chase us but I have gotten better at just keeping my line and biking on.

Orange walk arrived and we hit the market because Kevin was craving pineapple and we needed water and groceries if we were going to journey on. We bought two carrots, a full pineapple which was gone in a matter of minutes because neither of us could talk as we raced to see who would get the extra piece since there was an odd number (I let Kevin have it 🙂 ) we went to a larger super store to get cheap water and try to find nuts to carry with…unfortunately Belize imports most of their products and this creates higher prices and very similar US products which we refuse to buy here. In reality we left Orange walk at 11:45/12:15 because we felt good and it wasn’t too hot of a day with the clouds, looking back I am not sure it was our smartest decision and at the same time it was the start of something great in this country.

As the morning turned to afternoon, hunger set in and the road was empty besides the giant buses passing us by and a few cars too close for Kevin’s comfort. It’s crazy how different our dislikes are. I for one dislike the dogs and camping where we can be seen whereas Kevin hates the mosquitos, ants, and cars which drive way too close to us for no good reason. What we both have agreed is not much fun is biking and searching for food when there is nothing in sight and we haven’t seen anything since we left Orange Walk until a small stand on the side of the road arrived before our eyes and we rode up and asked if they had food, the response is epic, yes we have chips. If I didn’t laugh inside to such an answer luckily Kevin followed up by asking if they had any real food and they said they would look and next thing I know we are sitting at a road stop stand eating their left over rice from probably the night before. We scarfed it down and the nicest older man said we could stay the night.

I checked my watch and got a better feel for the son and father duo and told Kevin I thought it was a good offer and would allow us time off the bike rather than making a 100km plus day so at 14:00 we relaxed played Yahtzee for the first time and even got to explore their land and enjoy conversations with Armando.

Meet Armando, a simple man who just loves life and helping people. His son was some sort of alcoholic who literally threw out big names and could only hold a conversation about diving which was fine until it became repetitive. We got to hack coconuts with machetes and drink their water both aged and young ones and I got to read my book when Kevin wasn’t dragging me to “meet” their needs and expectations of spending time in front of the TV. Armando cooked us dinner and in the evening we got to meet his wife whom comes from Mexico and only spoke Spanish yet we were able to enjoy her Spanish TV soap and then we were off to bed.

If I wasn’t writing this a week later I am sure I would have used descriptive words and made the story more detail to how it truly played out yet I am far behind in updates from lack of wifi and being tired when we stop biking which means I go to sleep at 19:40/20:00 when it gets dark and wake at 4:50/5:00 to start all over again. If I ever tell these stories in person please allow for the true creative spirit to come through. Peace and love, Kevin and CJ mostly CJ because Kevin just enjoys checking which photos I post and which stories I tell.

Our journey to and through Tulum was short but sweet or should I say spicy. By far the highlight of Tulum was our first public beach access and swim which also meant our first “shower” in three days as well as the spiciest and most flavourful burrito I have ever ate.

We bought groceries for the journey ahead and we really weren’t sure how far we would go we just knew Tulum was not the place for us. In ordinary fashion with bikes as our method of transport we hoped on and off and agreed to start looking for a campsite come 15:00. We found a place we liked which was a lagoon entrance so we settled in and pulled out our rings for a workout which we only just finished when the lagoon workers kicked us out and said they needed to close the barriers. After quickly packing in terrible fashion all our bags and losing our campsite we biked further south in hopes to camp in some place which didn’t have a private sign and we found safe enough to give us a little piece of mind.