One hit wonder…..

Cabanas Canas Castillos is the only place we visited in Costa Rica and we were perfectly satisfied with this decision. I feel slightly bad because Kevin has never been to the country before and I myself had previously visited the jungle, zip lined with monkeys, and hiked some volcanoes thus I know of it’s rich beauty and all it has to offer. Our week was magical and full of hard work mixed with learning and lots of laughter.

We waved goodbye to our friends and walked through the entrance. We finally made it to Cabanas Canas Castillos we were only three days late from the original date we had planned to arrive. We found the reception and were greeted with a smile, meet Agi. Agi asked our names and as soon as Kevin said Kevin she recognized the name and we apologized for his aunt saying we would arrive on the 25th we had a tough time leaving our favorite surf spot. She said it wasn’t any trouble and wondered if we would show up or not and proceeded to apologize for only having budget rooms available. We laughed because for us it was an upgrade. A simple room with a window, fan and medium size bed was luxury in comparison to our tent. We dropped our bags and she offered to make us a snack since dinner was not till 19:00 and we agreed and enjoyed our first sandwiches since I can remember. As soon as the fresh bread hit our lips our hearts smiled.

My belly couldn’t wait for dinner at 19:00 because all the reviews and books talked about the amazing service and food and let’s be honest, we could use a break from all the central American food. When the clock struck 18:15 you could find Kevin and I at the table waiting quietly for dinner.

Agi and Guido knew Kevin and I too well. On the first nights dinner they came to our table to offer a second helping of the meal and we couldn’t say no. We were like hungry wolves fighting for survival and survive we did. We thrived in this environment and all thanks goes to Kevin’s Aunt who literally pushed us off the cliff to land at the finca with her generosity.

After overstaying our three days in the budget room and enjoying every dinner to the fullest we couldn’t say goodbye yet myself being the budget police couldn’t allow us to stay and where there is a will there is a way this we created our own way: we loved Agi, Guido and all they had created at Cabanas Castillo and we asked them if we could move to the camp grounds and work in exchange for dinner. They obliged and told us to enjoy breakfast and dinner and not to worry. They are the type of people who believe it all works out in the end and make the best of all that comes their way.

They told us to meet them at 6:00 the next morning and we could learn the ropes with the animals from the local who typically takes care of all the feeding, cleaning and milking of the animals during the first hours of sunrise. We got up and got to work because we could not wait to get fed another meal deliciously cooked by Agi. We fed the ducks who tried to attack us, fed the fish who jumped to the surface when we threw the food into the lake, we cleaned the chicken coop and gave them fresh water and feed, we cleaned the pigs and hiked to find the goats. After finding one dead we herded them into the feeding Stahl and learned how to milk them and then drank the milk directly and it was the warmest and tastiest milk I’ve ever tasted. After we finished we were welcomed by fresh squeezed orange juice, homemade bread just out of the oven, and fresh jelly with the option of having some eggs and yogurt if we wished all topped off with coffee and moringa tea.

A day on the finca:

• 5:00 wake up and have coffee whilst listening to the monkeys
• 6:00 feed the animals
• 7:00-9:00 serve breakfast
• 9:00 clean up
• 10:00 drink tea, make cheese, jam and chocolate and other chored
• 12:00-14:00 pick moringa, take care of the horses etc.
• 14:00-17:30 read, drink moringa tea, workout and shower
• 18:00-21:00 prepare dinner, serve dinner, clean up dinner, drink tea and chat
• 22:00 pass out and rest to do it all over again

Working on a farm is no joke especially when you are only a few people and offer high quality service…you are on your feet nonstop and when a guest wants a special request you smile and grant it and do the best you can to make their dream come true. You are on your feet non stop and your cheeks hurt from smiling yet you can’t help it because you are always doing something different and fun, creating and making people happy through food and memories in a place off the beaten path where you wake up to nature, work hard all day and go to bed with your stomach full of love and exhausted from a 15 hour work day but can’t wait to get up and do it all again.

We loved the vision of this place and I can’t find the words to completly describe it but we found a family among the owners and guest alike. People extended their stay with us and Agi and Guido treated us as their own family as did the locals whom work alongside them. We loved it so much and wanted to learn more about how the business fully works, spend more times working with the animals and experimenting in the kitchen that Agi and Guido invited us back in September to take over for a month while they enjoy a much needed vacation together, their first in years! At first we contemplated, for maybe an hour, then we decided to take the leap because this is what traveling is all about…. we said yes and if you want to come experience the magic we welcome all the visitors in September 2020. Warning: it will be rainy season and although that means it is wetter than usual you also get less tourist and a more personal touch with nature and we promise to do our best to give the highest quality service with a touch of CJ and Kevin sprinkled on top.

This is my Nicaragua. This is the place where you show up with the t-shirt on your back. You kick off your shoes to go barefoot and two months later ask what day it is and consider the time left on your Visa and then contemplate if you stay one more day or get your visa extended Welcome to Playa de Popoyo and welcome to Camping Luna.

It goes like this….5:00am I didn’t want to get out of bed. I rolled over to Kevin and snuggled up hoping he would still be sleeping. He rubbed my back and asked if I needed cuddles. Without hesitation I shook my head and nuzzled my nose into his armpit and despite the smell enjoyed his cheek kisses. He got up and asked if I was ready for the light and then turned it. It was go time. Coffee prep, throw in the veggies, he cooked the eggs and I chopped the pineapple and packed our containers. Breakfast was good and we loved Casa Lula so it was a tough goodbye but it was time. We walked out the door and 35 minutes later we found ourselves at the bus station on a microbus to Managua. 

After Managua we made our way to Rivas where we decided to stop and get coffee which ended in us splitting a delicious brownie the same one we had in Leon so we knew it was fate and we should capitalize on the opportunity while we had it since the next bus wasn’t for 2 hours. We used the wifi, got money from an atm, and bought water before walking to catch our last bus of the day to Popoyo. Down a dirt road and the bus dropped us at a junction where we began walking down the path to try and find Luna Camping. After about 15 minutes I was waving down every car which passed. Kevin didn’t like it and asked why I was doing it and in my defense I said well I might as well try and if they don’t stop we keep enjoying this walk with no harm done with my trials. He laughed and said ok I wave down this motorcycle and we laughed because his joke turned into reality the guy stopped and we jumped on with both our bags and got a ride the rest of the way right to the front gate of Camping Luna.

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Paradise. We put up our tent and went and walked the beach. It was stunning. A friend had told me about Magnificent Rock which is a nicer hotel up the road. We went there for sunset and it did not disappoint. Thank you King your recommendations have made surfing in Nicaragua a dream come true. We both were starving and neither had the energy to negate that we paid $35 for dinner which was delicious but way too expensive for our typical budget. We argued about this later in the week…why? We enjoyed the meal had the experience and that is that.

We were both starving so we ordered way too expensive food and just enjoyed the sunset and each other’s company promising to save money the following days camping and surfing and cooking all our meals.

It was 19:30 and we got into the tent and I looked up and just smiled from the inside out because the stars were brighter and I couldn’t help but be thankful for the entire world. We stayed not one, not two, not three but sic nights and probably would have stayed a month if we didn’t have flights to Colombia to catch as well as a place in Costa Rica we wanted to check out. We bought groceries and cooked a giant meal to have for the next three or four meals. Rice mixed with veggies, cheese and spices. We compromised that we cook because we have been going over our budget and truly Kevin was just angry because I made him reconsider buying wine for $7 and using that for food as wine was a luxury. More on this later as I will reveal the blow up. We worked out and after a guy with fresh caught lobster stopped by, so we splurged and bought a large lobster to put on our grill that evening over a fire. The day went on and we ate fruit, drank coffee and went surfing. As the sunset we decided it was time to go in for a snack and we quickly cut pineapple and ate it before going back out to catch the last of the waves for the evening. Once we got back to the tent it was showers and then time to start the fire and grill the lobster. We ate like celebrities and didn’t go to bed hungry. We shared the lobster and ate it with our rice and veggies mix we made for lunch. The whole time in this place our conversations were in depth. We didn’t have wifi at the campground, we didn’t worry about what time it was and we didn’t stress. We took naps in hammocks if we felt like it. I went to bed at 19:15 and Kevin stayed up and read and no one’s feelings were hurt. We surfed and crashed waves sharing one board and no one got mad at the other for taking longer if they wanted during their turn. We took bikes to the salt fields and grabbed some to use when we cooked. Every night I looked up at the stars and wished our families were with us to enjoy some of these moments. To take a step away from life and just be in each other’s company looking at the stars, listening to the waves and feeling pure happiness and gratefulness for all that we have.

One of the days I was out for a walk and upon my return Kevin was translating for a French couple, Audrey and Mic. They wanted to know about surfing and camping and food. Ultimately he said he was productive working but we made friends and walked to the market up the dirt path chatting. Then we heard it…the veggie truck was passing by and Kevin ran and waved them down. We bought fruits and veggies and then hitched a ride back with them after grabbing salt for cooking.

We quickly became friends and loved their easy going attitudes and made plans to surf together and have meal exchanges for the next three nights. The first night we cooked at their kitchen and made delicious salad and what we named nicraclette. Potatoes and beets sliced in the oven with cheese. We had drinks and listened to music and just enjoyed the company of others exchanging conversation.

The second night we had a beach bonfire and made chicken on the grill with an avocado, rice, tomato and cheese salad. That night our Italian travel buddies with the RV joined us for music making and rum.

The next day we argued, we cried, we literally sat on the beach unhappy about bottled up emotions. We have such different visions on how our trip would look. I missed biking, I missed doing things and being active all day and meeting locals. He liked working on his book and just seeing whatever we saw. He was negative and pushing me away and I wanted more time just doing things with him exploring the world. We chatted and found a middle ground moving forward and exchanged emotions and hugs and kisses and dodged the waves laughing and coming out stronger together with a plan moving forward with our travel itinerary and budget. We surfed the evening away with the french and italian couple and then made our way to camping Luna for homemade brick oven burritos ala Kevin and CJ.

The night ended with friend plantain chips in the oven and banana+egg pancakes and Kevin and I decided to stay longer and catch a ride with Manuel and Sandra in the camper van to Costa Rica that meant we needed money and the ATM was not close so the next morning we woke up drank coffee and hitchhiked to the airport, we saw the French couple waiting for the bus and picked them up dying laughing, at the airport the atm only accepted visa cards so we walked then caught a second ride to the hotel with another atm and got our money and started walking back then caught another ride and eventually caught our final truck back with the same guys who took us to the airport and we were back in no time to enjoy the day and had money to camp, surf and eat.

Last night we went surfing. I took the body board and Kevin went first with the surf board. We would trade on and off. I went out further and caught a wave body boarding and out of the corner of my eye on my left I see Kevin getting ready to catch my wave so I steer left and start yelling Kevin with the biggest grin on my face hoping not to mess him up. He stood up and looked over and we were filled with life and we surfed the wave together all the way to the beach ending in the sand. He grabbed me by the waisted and planted a giant kiss on my lips we hugged and fist bumped and both knew this was a moment we would never forget. A story we would tell for years to come. It was the best surfing session for both of us as we caught waves and finally learned to drop in and stand up. Practice pays off.

T.I.N. = This is Nicaragua

We stayed with the locals and ate with the locals or cooked and shared with friends. We seriously will make our way to South France to hang with Audry and Mic again I truly believe that. I will drag my children to this dirt road camping spot and teach them to surf here if my way allows. I have been contemplating what can I leave behind or how can I make a difference in the life of Omar and his family who each morning greet us with a smile and look after us dya and night and seem like the most giving and thankful people who are happy to have tourist come to stay and surf because it means they don’t have to fight to survive by working on a farm and making only enough to feed themselves each day whereas now they can hire locals to help them work and can enjoy little things in life making twice the amount of a day’s work on the farm from one surfing lesson.

I am grateful. I love the people here. I am joyful and Kevin and I are better people and surfers after staying in Popoyo.

Remote and solar powered lodge which you have to take a boat and then catch a horse carriage ride to access the huts and dorms…check. In the spirit of my extreme penny pinching I had Kevin organize and make sure the beach trip which was included in the volcano boarding could serve as our transportation to surfing turtle lodge. Luckily for us Kevin’s Spanish creates vast opportunities and our turtle lodge trip is no exception. The truck loaded with foreigners stopped by El Jardin, Kevin and I jumped out and filled our water bottles, grabbed our bags and hop in the back of the truck and said, vamos! We got jostled around chatting with a Dutch guy about our trip and eventually made it to the beach. After checking maps.me we found out we have a 4km walk to the opposite end of the beach to catch the boat. Again Spanish is gold down here. The drivers took us for free to the other side and we caught a boat for $1. Crossing the lagoon/ocean took about 5 minutes before the horse arrived with a wagon and took our bags and us to the lodge. The first night we had a semi private room and we dropped off our things and explored the tiny place.

The menu sucked but the views and the chill vibes were exactly what we needed. We played chess and then put in our dinner order of chicken wings which came out fried with french fries. I was starving and ate part of Kevin’s meal because he was unsatisfied and wouldn’t have it. So the next morning when we went to order breakfast he went straight to the cooks to order. We even chatted with the owner to be able to get a handful of bananas which only cost us $1 for around 8-10.

We spent our mornings workingout at sunrise and then hitting the ocean to surf. We had the entire ocean to ourselves and although we got tossed around it was a blast. My favorite surf story might be the first day we went surfing. Kevin grabbed a short board and I asked what he was doing. He replied with it can’t be that hard he knows how to snowboard and wake board. I figured I would let his ego be checked once we got into the ocean. We paddled out and I sat up on my board and laughter ensued. Kevin was trying to sit on his board but kept falling off. He yelled over….how do you sit on the board? Balance duh! I switched him boards and just enjoyed watching him try to catch waves and then get scared because some were relatively large. I scouted waves and gave him perfect chances and at mid day we called for a break and decided to start with the short shore waves once they had broke and it was just white wash. This worked much better for teaching and learning and practicing standing up.

Most evenings we waited for the sand to cool and then gathered for mini tournaments of beach volleyball with the group of individuals who were either guest or working at the lodge. Kevin had some amazing dives and serves which pleased the crowd, even I was impressed and thought back to us playing in Switzerland and going to the extreme when we played, leaving covered in sand.

Kevin and I both got time to work on things we enjoy, him his book and me the blog because I got sick and behind and then didn’t have WiFi. Surfing turtle lodge has so much potential and we heard it was a hot spot two years before but the previous riots really made this remote place empty not to mention it isn’t the easiest place to access and that just adds to it’s beauty. I imagined if they had a garden and grew their own food and revamp the menu, continued with the solar and utilized black and grey water this place would be a dream. They could even have nightly bonfires on the beach and nightly game nights to create the family feeling. Either way it is worth the visit and I enjoyed the get away and kick starting Kevin’s love for surfing even if he had to go through an ego check in the ocean.

Before I begin to explain one of our longest travel days….from San Jose Laguana Guatemala to Santa Ana, El Salvador in one days travel is not recommend.

The alarm went off, it was 4am and we walked our bikes up hill to the local bus stop. I thought we would be the only foreigners crazy enough to save a little bit of money and make the cross border trip by chicken bus so I was surprised to see another couple with their backpacks walking to the stop at this early hour. We got our bikes situated on top the bus and took our seats. I had read online how much it costs and still the guy wanted more and the other couple had already paid it, twice the price of the locals. I knew the day was ruined from here on forward. I was angry because I hate paying more than the normal price. This is public transportation and should be available for all at an equal price if we too must suffer the 100+ extra stops, no air conditioning and at times 3-4 people per seat which semi comfortably fits only 2 normal sized persons. So off we went until our stop where Kevin threw off his backpack and jumped on the ladder to climb the bus while it moved to make sure both our bikes got off the roof and onto the next bus. On this bus we decided to only give a small bill to pay and asked for our change. The man refused to give us money back which only had me fuming with steam more angry than before because yet again in 20 minutes we were forced to switch buses for no reason and they wanted us to pay double for the bikes. I refused. We refused and we sat angry shoved in the back with 6 people across the bus. My shoulders didn’t fit on the seat and only one butt cheek fit let alone I had a bag on my lap. At this point we said if the bikes make it to El Salvador great and if not we continue without them and don’t look back.

After too much time and two more bus stops with people trying to make us pay extra and having to wait for the right bus which could fit our bicycles we made it to the border crossing and were able to bike across. I was angry, Kevin kept telling me to get over it but I couldn’t. He speaks brilliant Spanish and still they ripped us off for no reason other than we are tourist. We complained and they didn’t care. Only one man who drove the last bus to the frontier knew how we felt as he had lived in the states and realized the prices is the same for everyone and it is stated on the advertisements. We biked across the border and I deeply wanted El Salvador to be different to have kind people who prided themselves on fairness and helping those who visit their country. Until we were stopped at the El Salvador border because I had an American pass and Kevin had been to the states before this trip. They talked of the virus and took our temperatures while asking more questions about our departure and arrival dates. This was the first encounter we have had with the virus and the US but we explained we left before anything in the US had happened and once we didn’t have temperatures they let us go freely to bike across to catch another bus.

As soon as we got to El Salvador it was all jokes. A man said he would give me $75 dollars for my bike and I said ok fine deal you can have it. He laughed and said he would only pay $25 for the bike. We waited for the proper bus and exchanged money to US dollars which just felt strange and then entered the bus and paid the states fee nothing more, I was excited and had an open mind for this country which many people had said was too dangerous to visit. Once at the main bus station to switch to head to Santa Ana we find kind people pointing us in the right direction and one man determined to make sure we get the correct deal and on the proper bus without paying too much for our bikes. He practically took control of my bike carrying it to the bus and putting in the back to be stored. Once we got to santa ana after way too many hours on dirt roads up the mountains near the volcano and lake we got to the city and found our accommodation a cosy single room which we both squeezed into for a cheaper price. What did we find at this hostal…Swiss people and the sons of the hostal owner were such fun and kind loving twins who have a passion for computer science, meeting new travelers and coffee.

The next morning we got our breakfast which came with our room and then headed to the chicken bus with one other girl from Switzerland. We watched the lake pass and then made it to the park entrance where I was happy to pay just a dollar for our guide but the scheme was different they have a monopoly on the place and although the hike was easy and easy to follow they wanted two dollars per person to leave before 11:00am and because we only had 11 not 15 people. I discussed with Kevin in Swiss German and ultimately told him it was bull shit and I didn’t want to pay two dollars but everyone else had agreed and this we went with it. During the hike I realized again how sore I am in over paying because the park fee is $6 which I totally understand and pay happily as to maintain the area and pay the park rangers. The other extra stuff pisses me off more than it should and is something I have vowed to improve and get over and enjoy the little things in life and don’t make a scene out of an extra dollar or two as it is just money and I can always find a job and make more of it if I need.

The hike was easy and since Kevin and I were slightly faster than the others we had the top to ourselves for about 10-15 minutes to enjoy the sulpher crater and take some photos without any clouds. We truly had beautiful weather as it looked like a cloudy day when we started our ascent.

After the hike we tried to find a place to workout and everywhere we went was either private, enclosed or surrounded by drunk people which we didn’t feel like dealing with. Our last resort was a fire station which I had read online usually takes in people camping or needing help. So we turned the corner and there was the station so Kevin asked if we could use their facilities and they said of course. Thank you firemen you guys rock in more ways than one. So we worked out with a guy from the hostal who was moving to Japan from the US and he reminded me of my cousin Matt even down to his mannerisms and they sound of his voice. They looked pretty similar too it was slightly scary even Kevin agreed. Afterwards we went to the store to get food to cook and check out the wild moon with the cathedral in the center of town.

If you made it this far you get an extra story and one of my add to the memory and don’t forget type of experiences. Kevin and I agreed to check out the local swimming pool with the twins whose dad owns the hostal we were staying at in Santa Ana. They told us they go at 6am and we said no problem. Our alarm went off and Kevin said he wasn’t going to God because he stayed up late playing guitar. He takes advantage any time a hostal has one to borrow ever since he forgot his in Mexico on day two haha. I made coffee and brought him some to bed. He reluctantly got up and agreed to suck it up. I hope he is glad he did because I wouldn’t have wanted him to miss us walking past the prison and showing up to the all natural swimming pool with tons of locals taking a morning swim on Saturday at 6am. I kick myself for not bringing my phone for photos but at the same time it allowed us to just soak it up. We got ready and jumped in the cold water and began swimming laps alongside everyone else. Once we finished we saw how the pool is actually connected to the river and flows down stream. The place also had showers and a station to wash your clothes for free. It was beautiful you swam with the fish in the local river pool. I loved it and now that I think back I hope I kept my mouth shut while swimming and that this was not the cause of my later parasite and then again what is done is done and I’m still recovering but I am fine and it all comes with the travel experience. I still would rank bed bugs as worse but second worst thing might be a parasite while traveling and I would take lice over both of them. Yes I have had all three of those experiences in my past two of them while in Asia and one on this trip. We left Santa Ana by bike after saying goodbye to the nice family and friends we had met in Santa Ana.

Pardon my language and any kid under 18 should not read this post! Wr woke up at the warm showers host in Santa Tecla and I felt a little better. Maybe it was because I barely ate anything or had opened the flood gates in the toilet and had nothing left in me. We took the morning slow and packed our bags with intentions to meet a guide in Taminque to hike to the Cascades the head to El Tunco if time allowed. We took a photo with Gaucho (wish I had it not sure he sent it to me) with out bikes and he was riding his sons plastic tricycle. Once we excited the gated community Kevin asked if I wanted to take the bus, what compelled me to say no I have no idea, so I said no it’s ok I try to bike. Fuck I love biking and hiking and being outside and pushing myself, next time….I don’t play the hero and I take the bus. We rode till the first hill, I walked my bike upwards. We rode till we exited the city and again we walked our bikes up hill. I paused every 2 times if not less. (This post might be long hopefully worth it though with some funny stories). I never take breaks and if I do it is simply to pause and get water and wait for Kevin typically. After the uphills were some epic downhills but never enough to power me up the next uphill and I cursed this.

I started to complain like I have never complained before. Kevin begs to differ on this fact. I thought he would get the point that I was dead and did not want to carry on… his defense: I always exaggerate and say I’m about to pass out when I’m hungry and tired. Mind you I had a sleeping bag and sweatshirt on the day before in 90 degree heat and I layed on the ground and did nothing and was warm to touch. Then it came the urge. An urge like no other I yelled for Kevin to grab my bike I pulled.my pants down and say in the V on the side of the road where water can run down and I almost pooped my pants. I finished and laughed and asked Kevin to give me the wipes while he held my bike and his. We hear a car coming. I just sit there because at this point it’s too late. The truck passes Kevin gives me some wipes and then I stand up and he compliments me on how large of a dump I just took. I felt a little relief. It was wild and I couldn’t control it. I covered it with leaves and hope some flies enjoy the meal because it felt good to get it out and my bloated belly slightly decreased.

So I kept leading and stoping to take breaks to lay my bicycle down and lay on the side of the road and Kevin was paitent yet still did not believe there was a problem. I knew I was ill and something was not right. I couldn’t isolate the problem so I carried on like this…..

At one point I showed him how extended and bloated my belly looked, the lower part as he asked if I had a stomach ache. My stomach the upper part felt fine, my lower part where you cramp from your period and bloat during your menstrual time hurt to touch and felt hard. I felt fucked up and didn’t know what to do because once you start biking and hiking you can’t just decided to call it quits in the middle of nowhere with no food or water nearby.

I was so done I waved down every car that passed by and NONE stopped. I was devastated as previously we had such luck hitchhiking. Finally a truck stopped to pull us up the hill but I was too weak to hold. Yet another que on my body language which Kevin ignored. It was not till the photo above with the shirt covering my face that things changed. Kevin came over to me and asked how things were, my response: if a guy with a machete (normally a fear of mine while camping) came over I would tell him it’s fine you can just chop me up I can’t do anything anyways I am no longer afraid and if it’s my time I’m ok with it. He then decided ok he too would help flag down a car and he succeeded in flagging down the next car…..it was the police. They kindly gave us a ride to the top of all the hills with a guarantee it would be all downhill from there and it was. Which was brilliant until Kevin’s breaks were no longer existed. So we stopped did a road side change quick and easy I did one side he did the other and back downhill we went till the town of tht cascades.

Long story short I was feeling weak and exhausted they wanted us to pay for a guide we didn’t pay for the guide because some Americans we saw on the way down said it was easy and told us were the path was. The “guide” walking with us was pissed and talked shit about us in Spanish which we understood but said nothing and went to enjoy the water. Now my body temperature was hot and if you felt me I was burning up so you would think freezing cold water would have felt nice but as soon as I stepped into the water I had goose bumps and was shivering. Again clue. Again Kevin was clueless. I love water and swimming and I barely got in and was ok with leaving 30 minutes after we got there and he enjoyed while I tried to hide my side of I am ready to just roll over and let the birds eat me for breakfast lunch and dinner feeling.

When we got back up from the hike Kevin ate and forced me to try some even though the thought of eating made me sick. We drank coke which we never do and that honestly tasted good but made me feel more sick. I layed in a hammock and wanted to sleep yet the last bus left in 1 hour 15 and the map said we still had 45 minutes to walk to the stop and it was uphill and we would have to push our bikes too. I told Kevin I couldn’t do it. My bike weighed too much… again another cue as I typically like to battle the hard and heavy stuff and ask for more weight. He offered to put my bag on his back and he did. It was sweet but also the only way I made it up the hill. On the hike up a local told us it would only take 30minutes to get to El Tunco because it was all downhill so logically we rode downhill and didn’t buy bus tickets. Give and take right? It was a stunning ride and mostly down which was easy on the legs but that didn’t help all the other things happening inside of me. We made it and put up our tent and paid for two nights a total of only 12 $ what a deal. I was tired and wanted to skip dinner but still I hadn’t eaten and knew I should try. We went out to get clean food and Kevin grabbed a beer. Oddly enough our fake Italian friends from the camper and volcano in Guatemala passed by as did an Irish couple we saw in Santa Ana. They all joined us for beers with Kevin and I suffered. That meant more time and 2 rounds not just one. I tried to stay nice and friendly but eventually ended up with my head against the pole trying to just survive. Finally we started to walk back and what does Kevin complain about but rather we went the opposite direction of the ice cream he previously laid eyes on. At this point it’s all bullshit. He went into a small shop to buy ice cream then stopped to get a frozen banana covered in chocolate and finally we made it to the tent where I couldn’t find my toothbrush and was already fuming I just got in the tent and went to bed. Body on fire Kevin asked for a thermometer and if I wanted to go to the hospital. No I didn’t “want” to go…. probably should have. I suffered all night. Kevin slept. I hit him to go get me ice. I moved and slept outside in the ocean breeze. I went to the toilet 10+ times not sure what was coming out. I sat in the tent and then I rolled left and right and with the sleeping bag then without. Finally morning came. I told Kevin it was time. My fever hadn’t broke and it was 102 F and I was exhausted, hot, had goose bumps and still hadn’t ate.

The guy from our hostal gave us a ride and before you say that was nice, he later charged us $6 the money we wanted back because we decided not to camp once I got out of the hospital because I still couldn’t get my temp down. In reality the bus to the hospital cost $0.25 per person. What an emergency help and hospitality that was after the lecture the previous day on arrival about how everyone there is family.

I got strange looks from the locals when I walked in. Kevin translated and eventually I got to a room where the did an IV after we bought the container for my stool sample at a whopping $0.35. I gave blood and then sat in a room with a pregnant lady and got my IV and slept on and off for six hours while Kevin took the bus back to El Tunco. All throughout this I had only called my sister since my dad didn’t answer at first to tell someone I was going to the hospital and my dad called me while I was at the hospital. Unfortunately Kevin called my mom and she freaked lol I always wait till after or have my dad break the news as she is slightly more sensitive.

They got the results back and Kevin hadn’t returned yet so I listened in Spanish understand that I had a parasite and need to take medicine just not sure how much how often. I told the Dr. He would return in an hour and went back to sleep. He finally arrived and ran around the hospital trying to figure out what had happened and what I didn’t understand etc. And then it was time to go. We asked where to pay and how much and the doctor just said gratis. We looked at each other said ok and left with the medicine and hopped on the bus back to our camp.

Here is where we get spoiled. Because my mom freaked out and was worried about her baby my dad felt bad we were camping and got us an air conditioned room for two nights. Luckily he did because it wasn’t till that night that my fever broke after we had to turn the air colder. I still had to sit on the toilet way too often but I finally felt like eating and was able to eat some. I didn’t get to enjoy El Tunco as much as I would have liked. I wanted to surf and rent a motorbike to explore but my health came first. I sat in the room and only went out to eat. Kevin is a trooper for the hospital day as he did everything and barely got to have a meal since they were making me go from one place to the next till the IV. He also moved all our bags from our campsite to our hotel

Parasite CJ got skinny, the kind where you feel weak and ill and don’t want to eat and hate sitting on the toilet. I even woke up the first night in the hotel bed pooping liquid. I pooped my pants and it went through to the bed. I wanted to cry but Kevin was sleeping and I felt bad. I got in the shower cleaned off put a towel down and went back to bed, there is definitely a first time for everything. I hope to one day go back to El Tunco and enjoy it a little more. It’s touristy but fun during the week. The weekends may differ. In general I loved El Salvador and still do and will push people to go there. Their motto is Don’t Skip El Salvador. They know they have had a bad rep and are trying to change it and are doing a great job at it. I loved their hospitality and kindness and if they gave me a parasite some how. Also, really don’t drink the water and stuff it’s no joke.

The ride began with some uphill battles I stopped to tell Kevin my brakes were rubbing and he brought me back to earth… we just hadn’t biked in a while and hiked yesterday and his load felt heavier than ever as well. So in reality my bike just felt heavy and my brakes were fine. Eventually the uphills turned back into the panamerican highway with a nice shoulder unlike Guatemala and we got to slowly decline. We were making record speed. We barely paused except for a quick sip of water and to check the map for no reason other than to  check off the kilometers and make sure we hadn’t passed our destination. I got into a groove and made it to bridge and stopped for water. I looked back and Kevin was nowhere to be found. This reoccurring theme drives me wild. An ambulance passed and I thought the worst and told myself to get out of my head he was just being slow. I didn’t want to ride back up the hill to go see him probably just taking a pee break without yelling for me to stop. I waited and waited until waiting wasn’t an option even though I didn’t want to leave the shade. I walked back with my bike cursing the fact that he hadn’t brought a working cell phone and he did not yell for me to stop. All of a sudden he came riding down with black fingers this equals bike problems and a smile on his face. Happy to hear it wasn’t his brake rather his chain popped off and his purple bike no longer had a protective cover it once did. Why he kept the cover and carried it in his front basket to show me I will never know because sometimes he does weird things like that.

We kept biking and I know we both saw the delicious sign for a cafe meal at the same time and were thinking ok we stop there for lunch and then go see if our warm shower host is home. A worker at the gas station gave us a warm welcome asked questions and then told us he would watch our bikes. We walked inside and the food looked delicious. We ordered ate and then treated ourselves since we weren’t going to spend much money today being hosted and premaking food. Instead of sharing we splurged and both got what we wanted. I got a frozen coffee and Kevin got a piece of pie with a new fruit, Hugo or something and both were delicious. At one point Kevin said you must feel safe here because I had mentioned the bikes and we didn’t even lock them up. We laughed and said what we always say if they are gone someone needed them more and we were meant to be done biking. We talked how I loved El Salvador and would ultimately tell people if they were to visit one country in Central America go to El Salvador. Their motto here is don’t skip El Salvador because they know they have had a bad reputation. We had one last hill and I tried to grab a truck to pull me up and eventually he just stopped and gave us a ride into town. He talked to Kevin the entire ride about the country and people then we parted ways and met Gaucho and his family. They felt like home.

Gaucho is an ultra runner and his wife Ale also runs and is a teacher. They have a three year old son Dante whom was adorable and I think enjoyed our company because it was Saturday so we were going to have a pajama party that evening Gaucho said he was going for a run that evening and I was nervous to go since I hadn’t ran in what felt like years and eventually I got the confidence to join him and a friend Juan Pablo. 21 km up and down hills I watched them quickly inch away and be nowhere in sight around curves and I kept putting one foot in front of the other telling myself ai could do it. I felt depleted yet I knew I could make it up the inclines, which lasted 7km at least, even if I had to walk. The declines were just as bad although the two gazelles didn’t get as far ahead. They were great running company as they waited at the top of each hill or came smiling and running back for me asking you ok? My response was often I may be slow but I’m going to make it. They would say we know and head back off in the distance toward the sunset. We passed the most beautiful coffee farm, view points, and an event center which I told Kevin we were going to get married. He just laughed it off saying no schatz and then looked it up on the internet. After what Gaucho and Juan Pablo named hill number 3 I was barely moving up the hills. I felt bad as I did not want to ruin their long Saturday run. They said we only had about 8km left. I was torn, I had past the half way make and still I had finally hit a mental barrier. That morning we swam and then biked and now my mini triathlon needed to come to and end. We hitchhiked a ride with a boy’s soccer team in the back of a truck. We were dripping sweat all over them and they were kind enough not to care. Gaucho told me in the truck that the previous bride they tried to wave down wouldn’t stop for the two men and it wasn’t till I appeared that people started to pay attention to them. One last uphill they said then we finish. We got water it was gone in a second and then slow and steady it went. Then down the hill and back to Juan Pablo’s we went, the starting and ending point. When we arrived his wife and him brought out poweraid which again was gone before they even opened theirs. He brought me a shirt from El Salvador and his running team and hugged goodbye. I told him if he ever runs a race in the US or Europe I would love to host his family or go watch if I am near because this year he trains for the Tokyo Marathon.

Gaucho and I returned to the house and Kevin was finishing up his work and they had ordered papusas. My cold shower felt like heaven and I was beyond proud of myself for sucking it up and enjoying the local experience with two kind gentlemen. That’s why I love the running community, they are everywhere and you need little to nothing to enjoy the activity. My cold shower felt like heaven then we ate and enjoyed some delicious hot cinnamon artesian chocolate drink and went to bed.

Then it began a dog barking for hours which kept us awake and I felt like shit. I was hot I was cold I was miserable. I woke up and something felt off. I went to table for breakfast and had a few slices of papaya and a little of the eggs Kevin prepared and some coffee. Then I layed back down. I layed on the hard tile floor without my sleeping mats and tried to muster the power to do something that day. It was a workout day but I just couldn’t. I didn’t want coffee, food, or to move. Eventually I started feeling like my body from the inside out was on fire. Kevin was sadly not empathetic like his usual self. I think he just thought I was tired fr running the day before. I couldn’t stay off the toilet and I also didn’t want to drink water. My lower intestines felt pressure and although I was hot I felt freezing and had goose bumps. I put on a sweatshirt and a sleeping bag and went back to sleep for the entire day I layed on the hard ground going in and out of sleep and just laying there thinking I wish I could get moving and do things and on the other hand I had no desire. So I did nothing. I lied there hoping tomorrow would be better, tomorrow I would be able to bike to the beach and head further south. And then tomorrow came and we were headed to El Tunco…..

The bus arrived just as the sun set and Kevin let me lead. I had looked up two hostals with great reviews in the city of Leon as it wasn’t feasible to camp within the city limits and we had seen photos of people boarding down a volcano and we just had to see for ourselves if it was worth the hype. In the midst of following maps.me directions a gentleman with his two daughters said there was a hostal just behind us up the road which he had stayed at a few years back so I stopped the map app and we turned around and five minutes later we walked into El Jardin booked our volcano trip and Kevin sweet talked them into picking up our luggage and leaving us at the beach after to go to our next destination. A rough night sleep for Kevin as her tried to sleep outside in three different spots. The first place was a hammock which ended up breaking, the second smelt like pee and lastly bugs. So logically he did what any man would he took my fan and put it on high next to his own fan and paused it directly on himself. When I woke up he asked how I slept I said pretty decent except it got hot at the end and with laughter he responds…. I know I saw sleeping fine so I stole your fan and proceeded to tell me how he tried sleeping outside in the garden.

We ate, we drank coffee and we handed our bags to the Man behind the counter at our hostal for pick up later and jumped in the back of a beautiful Toyota land rover and we’re off to the volcano or so we thought. We stopped at Viavia and then we met the rest of our group and who did we see, Sandra and Manuel whom we hiked with us Guatemala and whom we had seen in El Tunco pre-hospital visit and Carolina who hiked with us in El Salvador we died laughing exchanged hugs and cheek kisses and caught up on places we had been and where we will go next.

We got to pick out t shirts and I dug through the piles till I found the exact one I had my mind set on. Look for it in the photos to come 🙂 I needed a new shirt as my old one smelled and has holes it will be in the trash soon.

We met an Aussie pair who are mountain bikers and exchanged info the entire 45minute ride the entrance. Then we grabbed our boards and got our gear and started walking up. We were the only two not sledding down as we decided to try out standing. The guide kept telling us how we weren’t going to have fun as it’s harder with the volcanic rock to stand up and go down and that pushed me to prove him wrong. He also made us wait till last so everyone could watch and watch they did.

The trip was amazing. I’m not sure if volcano boarding is always a blast but the group we had and all the conversations mixed with a pre volcano coffee hour, volcano hike and boarding, then watermelon, drinks and the beach mixed with good people made for a great Valentine’s celebration Kevin and I agreed.

now for all the fun photos from the trip:

It may look innocent from afar but cobblestone will pop your chain off your bike resulting in your hands stained black for the rest of the day. We bumped our way into the city of ruins and stopped to take a picture by one of the old buildings and infamous arch.

As we passed through the arch we agreed, step one find food because shocking Kevin was starving and needed a second breakfast. Step two, find a bike mechanic to see if we could add the typical style bike breaks to Kevin’s bike in order to supplement his foot break. More cobblestone streets combined with more people, more cars and street vendors increased the sweat dripping from my helmet down my neck. After an hour we finally found a mechanic on the street who would attempt to add breaks to Kevin’s bike and we had an hour to spare.

We browsed the food vendors and ordered a quesadilla and a chicken burrito. Kevin had his backpack on his back carrying the quesadilla while I carried the burrito in one hand pushed my bike with the other and had my backpack on my back and our electronic bag in my basket making my bike rather heavy in the front where I was steering the bike over cobblestone and speed bumps trying not to crash into anyone. After finding a place in the shade (heaven forbid we spend more time in the sun and we do most days) we sat on a curb in front of a computer shop which televised the situation of child labor in Guatemala. I took one bite of the burrito when all I could think about was the fact that I ordered the quesadilla and didn’t want the burrito when all of a sudden the plate and second half of the burrito tipped over and landed perfectly on the black ground in front of me with only splatters of sauce on my dirty leg and arm. I picked up the burrito and blew it off. Kevin raised his voice at me as if punishing me although it was simply an accident. It reminded me of when parents lecture their children to pay attention and the child was they just miss judged their ability and then the shame comes when someone gets harsh about such a little mistake and you feel bad even though it really is something minor. I told Kevin I would eat that half but he argued I should protect my stomach and we just go buy another item. I ate the half which fell on the ground and he still managed to go spend more money getting a chicken sandwich and eating 3/4 of my quesadilla. After all was said and done a guy brought me napkins to clean up the spilled burrito on my leg and probably to really clean myself in general. We had a full hour until the bike would be ready so we decided to get a coffee to share and use some internet in order to stay one night in the city at a hostel to shower and make sure the bike gets fixed and explore after pushing our bikes uphill the day before and walking them downhill this morning.

Kevin left to check on the bike and I stayed to find a place to sleep. At one point he was gone for over 35 minutes and I started to wonder if something happened. I decided I would give him another 30 minutes before I started to truly worry and search for him which would include carrying both our backpacks all our extra stuff, one bicycle and the electronic bag. Was not looking forward to such a task and therefore I was relieved when he returned, without his bike…..

He said it would be another 15 minutes as they were not able to mount both brakes but only a front break and they didn’t love the idea. They cut us a deal, obviously I asked if he paid less for one break because I am the budget police and we ended up paying less and getting extra break pads included in the price. At this point we walked our bikes down some cobble stone streets checking out a few hostals I had researched and ended up being able to pay 80qz total to camp and use all the facilities as well as get breakfast the next morning for the price. We dropped our bags and bikes and ended up exploring Antigua by foot.

We went to the market and super market to be able to cook dinner at the hostal that evening and ended up crossing paths with a funeral. The street was flooded with people wearing black and carrying a casket while the priest sang prayers. They took up the entire street and the argument began. Kevin wished to pass them quickly whereas I felt it would be disrespectful and we should just follow behind slowly. So we went our separate ways which wouldn’t have been a poblem in a country we knew well or if we both had working cell phones, we had nothing. I saw him enter the supermarket and eventually I made it into the store and was slightly upset not to find him at the entrance. Now to search the store, after finally bumping into one another we started our search for food deciding on semi healthy fast and easy dinner of yogurt, non dairy milk, natural granola and some fruits. The leftovers would be fore the next day when we tried to make our way to the volcano, finally.

The night was simple we made food, laughed and put our tent up in the middle of the hostal closed our eyes and soon it was morning. I couldn’t sleep past 5 and knew we had a long day so I jumped in the cold shower and let Kevin sleep a little longer. When I came out he had started to get morning going and made the usual coffee. For our low price night camping inside we got breakfast included: delicious egg sandwiches, more coffee, fresh fruit, and some biscuits. Originally we looked at the biscuits/cookies and said nah we don’t need them and eventually after we ate all the other food we started after the cookies dipping them in our coffee. We gathered our items and gear the TV say Chicago we immediately went to see what was happening and that was our first knowledge of the virus hitting the US. I still don’t know the name of it sadly haha. Haven’t been following news or watching TV. The locals here don’t even talk about it. We grabbed our bags carried everything one by one outside because we couldn’t fit our packed bikes through the small door way. On my out at on point I saw a coin collection on the desk by the front door and ran to grab the heavy pesos which were too old to use. I gave the owner one of each size and he was thrilled. We packed our bags and took a cute photo with the family and they were so happy about the coins and our journey and bikes. We are free entertainment on the single speed cruises and it makes for a fun story and an easy introduction to meeting people. We hit the cobble stone one last time for before we started pushing our bikes uphill for 6 hours just to go hike some volcano I saw pictures of.

My eyes burned from exhaust and smoke coming off the street vendors grills. We were like elephants trampling through a street market with only enough space to allow small children to walk through comfortably. That morning we had decided to take a chance and reach out by WhatsApp to a warm showers host with great reviews. We entered McDonalds for free wifi and checked our messages….he said yes. I was overcome with relief to have a safe place in the city area to sleep and to meet a local to give us more information and advice. We headed a little ways out of the city to zone 12. The 5 kilometers felt like 20, as we biked in the middle of a highway lane side by side with cars and motorbikes because this city was not meant for bikers of any sort. Eventually the maps.me directions led us to a closed gate where security asked for ID and whom we would be visiting. Needless to say we felt safe and excited for Guatemala after we fumbled for the correct name and address of Sergio our warm showers host.

Upon our arrival we rang the bell a nice lady answered hola, Kevin took over and explained hi we are here to stay with Sergio. She polietly told us he lived a few house down the street. That’s when I realized we got the numbers mixed up and had them backward. Sergio’s family welcomed us with open arms and told us where everything was and gave good directions to the super market to restock our food and buy groceries to finally be able to cook a meal.

We forgot the bike lock so Kevin gestured to the security guard that it would be nice if he would keep an eye on our bikes and we decided if they were gone then we were not meant to carry on biking so we would switch to another method of transport. After dragging Kevin by his ears out of the store we left with oats, chicken, veggies, eggs and quinoa to be able to make dinner and breakfast before a long day biking to Antigua.

As Kevin finished up cooking dinner Sergio finally arrived home and gave us a warm welcome and took us upstairs to his bike hosting Oasis. Kevin and him shared beers, we ate dinner and discussed the previous travelers he had hosted, Guatemala and how crazy we are to have single speed bikes especially in these mountains. He got a lot of good laughs and we didn’t know why until later that is when the mountains appeared and we began walking more often than not.

Sergio is a special type of person who will be in my contact list for years to come. He is the type of guy whom opens his home to all types of bicyclist and gives them a place to call home while they are on the road. I hope one day I could host him on his travels if he ever adventures to where I am living or even where I have family to host him.

In the morning Kevin and I took it slow, slightly felt bad since Sergio wanted to see us off and went to work late that morning since we were taking longer enjoying the park for a work out with the rings and then cooking a nice warm scrambled eggs with veggies breakfast along with coffee. Not to mention we got into a wonderful conversation about health and keto with one of Sergio’s son’s thus we didn’t end up packing our bikes till 8:45 and then left with heart felt goodbyes and many laughs as we hit the road on the single speed beach cruisers. If you are hesitant about trying out bicycle trips this stop made me a big fan of the website warmshowers especially because we got lucky to have such a great host on our first try and that he took a chance on us without reviews since I sent him a WhatsApp message. Thanks Sergio and you were right Guatemala is interesting when biking with crappy bikes in the mountain region.

Do we risk it? Do we let the break cool and then try descending the mountain again to get to Antigua? I grabbed my carrot and started to just enjoy the view because we weren’t going anywhere fast today. Then a man offered us shade and let us store our bikes inside his gate. As the day went on eventually he allowed us to stay the night and the rest is history. He took us around his property and introduced us to his daughter and grandkids. They were the most warm and welcoming crew. Two little boys, two young girls and a mother.

We switched off the TV and grabbed our dice and cards and Kevin began explaining the rules in Spanish. In hopes to improve my Spanish I took over the role as score keeper and had to write down all the Spanish numbers being said for points. These people were amazing at rolling the dice. In total I believe they rolled 5 yahtzees, sadly Kevin and I did not add to their brilliance, lets call it beginners luck this time. After Yahtzee we had coffee and promised we would play soccer. Before the game began we created goals with rocks and the boys pulled wheelies on their bike , which for reference was nicer than mine and Kevin’s.

After the coffee kicked in and we chatted with the adults over our trip and life, languages, what we are doing and why. We shared our two sandwiches we bought earlier and the boys had it eaten before we could even ask everyone if they wanted a bite. Then we finally made it back to the pitch. It was 3v2 the first game where I had a feisty boy named Jeffery on my team versus Kevin, Juan Carlos and Lesley. We played to 10 goals and in the first game my team obviously won, 10-8. We laughed, called fake hand balls and penalty kicks and even got to see the kids take some liberty to try out new tricks.

The second match got cut short as we lost light and got the call for dinner after Juan Carlos fell and smacked his forehesd on the concrete ground (was not due to Kevin or I), we all rushed inside to the long table to be served rice and beans with tortillas and fresh lemonade. It was tasty and out of being polite I believe Kevin and I once again, yes you guessed it, went to bed slightly hungry as to not take too much food.

After dinner we had promised all the children we would play poker and that’s exactly what we did. All hovered over a twin bed as our card table Kevin delt and I handed out the fake money chips for betting purposes. The kids practiced English and I returned the favor in bad Spanish. I sat there just enjoying a night not thinking of the language differences or life style choices/situation. We all smiled, we all laughed, we all shared the same food, the same type of sleeping accommodation and I truly believe we all had a night we won’t forget and will be one I will tell my kids about in full detail. It will be part of the inspiration behind hosting travelers at no cost if and when I have a place I call home. It will be reason I encourage friends and family to take in those who need a little help even if times for you are not perfect and ask nothing in return because it will not go unnoticed and it will have a lasting impact on those whom you help be it in small or large way.

Jeffery helped me find the toilet and gave me a phone for light and then ran inside to left me pee. It was dark and cold, a drastic change from the previous climates. After we said goodnight we got out our sleeping bags and kissed goodnight. Boom, crack…in the middle of the night I heard the volcano which we couldn’t see due to fog the day before. It woke me and I reacted my hit Kevin accidentally with my hand. He was fast asleep and my assumptions were right. He would not be the hero when it comes to noises in the middle of the night. Even if me hitting him when I was startled he snored onward in dream land. We got up early and made coffee and breakfast packed our bags and agreed to walk the downhill to the market and look to buy a set of normal hand breaks for Kevin’s bike. They gave us coffee and fed Kevin bread and ham offered us cereal or noodles, something which came in a small package and we polietly declined. All breakfast we talked about life and corruption, what the media says, and how property, water, and trash works where they live. To say I learn something everyday is an understatement. We kissed cheeks, hugged and took a photo and off we walked downhill alternating between walking and rolling down hoping we wouldn’t need to use the emergency ramps which accompany every turn and is a steep rock uphill in case you can’t stop. Eventually the road evened out and I could let off the breaks and feel the cool morning wind on my face as I watched the scene change from mountain to a city of ruins in the valley. Welcome to Antigua.